Day 2: That next morning I took the SOBO (South Bound) workshop held by the AT Lodge staff. They covered what to expect in the 100 Mile Wilderness (a section of the trail with very limited cell service or access to town) and helped me set up a food drop. I was planning to take 10 days of food to get through the 100 MW, so this allowed me to split it up instead of carrying it all at once.
Here’s what 10 days of food looks like
I prioritized foods that were made with compostable packaging. Fernweh and LivBar were some of my favorites, but hard to find after this first week.
I am also pescatarian, which was surprisingly easy on this trail. I was so happy to find meat alternatives in these small rural towns.
After the workshop, they shuttled me and a few other hikers that arrived late to Baxter State Park. I had a campsite reserved for two nights: one before and after climbing Katahdin.
Day 3: I woke up early to begin the trek. I remember the climb being very gradual, and there were so many beautiful rivers and greenery. I leapfrogged the hikers I shuttled in with, not knowing this would be the last day I saw most of them. A lot of people quit after Katahdin.
I took lots of breaks and when I sat down on a rock, I would see NOBOs (North Bounders) nearly sprinting in my direction. I was on my first day and they were on their last. I tried to talk to them, saying “OMG congratulations this must feel so exciting for you!” but most of the time they were on a mission to keep their head down and get up there. This set the tone for most of the NOBO’s I met along the way. I’d just step out of their way and if they wanted to chat, they’d stop too. Later i’d learn there’s some weird rivalry between NOBOs and SOBOs. To be honest, it’s just different levels of fear-mongering but that’s another story.
Mount Katahdin
4.3 grueling miles just to tap the Northern Terminus at the very top. It may sound easy, but with 3,900 foot gain and dwindling day light, it was relentless. That is the point where my journey would really begin and I needed to hike another 4.3 miles back down.
I get to the top right at 1:57pm on June 13, 2021. The park ranger emphasized how important it was to turn around by 2pm because of how long the hike would take to get to the bottom. He said there have been many search and rescues and he was not in the mood for another.
After my 2 minute-long photoshoot I headed down the mountain. I was so excited. “This is really happening!” I rode my hiker high all the way to the campsite and made it in just before dark. I enjoyed one of my fancy dehydrated meals (which wouldn’t last long before I had to switch to a more affordable / accessible option like Ramen) and went to bed.
Day 4: I entered the “100 Mile Wilderness”. This is one of the most notorious sections of the AT because it is the only stretch with little-to-no access to cell service (or even a nearby town). Basically once you’re in, you are IN. I was nervous because this was so early on in my trip, but I was still excited.
This section of the trail was saturated in tree roots, which really forced me to slow down after rolling my ankle 47 times. This also helped me to stop and smell the flowers. This was such a remote, beautiful part of the country and I was grateful to be here.
After 10 brutal but glorious days, I was finally out of the 100MW. I walked to the nearest road and took a shuttle to Shaw’s Hiker Hostel, where I would have my first shower in 2 weeks, sleep in a real bed, and enjoy my first meal that wasn’t out of a bag.
Shaw’s notorious blueberry pancakes
Shaw’s is known for their blueberry pancakes. Maine is covered in blueberries this time of year (June) so these were as fresh as you could imagine. So. Delicious.
Breakfast was cooked by Poet, a former AT hiker who opened Shaw’s with Hippie Chick, his wife who he met on the trail as well. All of the hostels along the AT were created by former hikers which was extra special because they really knew how to support the hiker community.
Shaw’s had a back shed called “Poet’s Gear Emporium” where food, hiking gear, and pack shakedowns* were held. Poet asked me if I wanted a shakedown and I said sure, which was awkward because my entire pack was exploded in front of 10 other hikers. It was worth it though because we were able to get my pack down to 32 pounds from 42. I mailed the remaining 10 items which included things like my extra pants, extra mid-layer, and extra hat (they say you pack your fears, so I guess I was afraid of getting cold).
*a shakedown is where an experienced hiker goes through every single item in your pack to make sure you are only carrying what you need. They will tell you that your “essential” items are not worth it and it will be very invasive and uncomfortable.
To read/see more about this adventure visit instagram.com/andreamochilera